Despite their fortress-like appearance, Jewish settlements like
this one near Bethlehem in the West Bank provide homes with modern comforts to Jewish
families. Also near Bethlehem is a refugee camp for the displaced
Palestinians, who live in conditions far inferior
to those in the Jewish settlements (Palestinian refugee camps are the most densely populated places in the
world).
In
Jerusalem, I met an American aid worker who explained that life was tough
for the Palestinians in the West Bank by design.
Israel wants them to emigrate
and free up land for more Jewish settlements. So
the "fence" runs through villages, commuters to Israel are made to queue
at the check-points at 2am, etc. She also said there is a political effort to
block religious outreach to the Palestinians. Why? American Christians today
accept the oppression of Palestinian Muslims, but that could change if
significant numbers of Palestinians were to become Christian.
Travel Tip
You will need your passport to cross the
Bethlehem checkpoint, from where
you need to take a dilapidated Palestinian taxi to Bethlehem. While the fare
can be negotiated down, a generous fare/tip most likely will have an impact
on the dinner table of your driver's family that evening. You don't have to look
far to see hardship. My driver looked 60 but turned out to be only 39.