The "white" Capernaum synagogue above was built in the 4th century on top of
Capernaum
's original "black" synagogue (bottom) that had been built by the Roman
centurion:
"And a certain centurion’s servant, who was
dear to him, was sick and ready to die. So when he heard about Jesus, he
sent elders of the Jews to Him, pleading with Him to come and heal his
servant. And when they came to Jesus, they begged Him earnestly, saying
that the one for whom He should do this was deserving, “for he loves our
nation, and has built us a synagogue." (Luke 7:2-5). According
to the Bible, Jesus himself taught at the Capernaum synagogue:
"Then
they went into Capernaum, and immediately on the Sabbath He entered the
synagogue and taught." (Mark 1:21)
Do you know why Jesus based His ministry in
Capernaum and taught most often
in or around this backwater town? Mishna, the record of the
Jewish oral code written during the first century AD to protect it from
Roman persecution, quotes more rabbis from Capernau
m than the rest of the world combined. Moreover, the school of Judaism adjacent
to the synagogu
e that I also visited was four times bigger than the
world's second biggest school of Judaism. From a spiritual perspective Capernau
m wasn't a backwater town. While
Jerusalem was the
political capital of Judaism, Capernau
m was its educational
capital.
Travel Tip
While visiting
Israel during tense times may be
a bit more precarious, there are benefits too. The hotels are empty (the one I
stayed in Tiberias had 15 of 180 rooms occupied), as are the sites. The
synagogu
e above was so deserted that I actually stretched out and took a quiet nap
in the balmy weather. To get to Caper
naum without a car, you need to take
a bus from Tiberias,
get off at a junction, then walk the last 3km along the
Lake of Gennesaret. Be advised
that the locals, including the bus driver, won't understand you if you ask
for "Caper
naum". You need to say, "Kfer Nahum", the Hebrew name for the
place that literally means the "Village of Nahum".